********* UPDATE *********

We did replace the chine planks and some of the transom planks, as they were less than 1/4” thick in some areas.  After finishing the bottom the Capri is rolled over and the job of getting the hullsides and decks ready for staining is next.  The hullsides were in pretty bad shape and more than a hundred fasteners were removed, replaced and re-bunged.  It seemed at times we were just going in circles.  We thought we had all of the thin bungs replaced, only to find a few more, then a few more after that.  The engine hatch was just plain toast and could not be saved.  It had been worked on earlier, as there were two pine 2x4s that were cut into frames and then screwed together with common drywall screws.  It was a dickens getting those removed.  We rebuilt the frame with all new mahogany and then re-planked.  The Capri’s engine hatch and rear deck planks are cut at an angel which requires a jig to get it just right.  As we’ve done so many of these now we just keep using the same jig we used on the first one.  It always makes quick work of getting the cut perfect.  We prefer to take one entire strake of lumber and run it from the forward end of the hatch all the way to the transom over the rear decks.  That way the grain will appear consistent from beginning to end, and makes a very nice appearance.

 

********* UPDATE *********

Whew! This U22 has turned into a real project, and one that has tested even our own experience and patience. We supported the hull with extra 2x8s once we were able to get her straight…with much measuring, leveling, and using a plum bob. Now it was on to removing first the keel, then the stem/gripe and once those were finished the frames…one by one. As you can see from the photos there were literally little if any patterns to work from. So, we made our patterns from ¼” plywood and fit them to the boat…planning-fitting-planning-fitting, etc. etc. Once we had the fit we used the new template and traced it onto new mahogany. It was extremely time consuming but it worked like a champ. We left the chines in to help us keep a visual perspective. We temporarily fastened the frames in place with just a few fasteners until we were finished with the chines. We cut and planed them into the correct size then steamed them for about two hours so they would make the bend without cracking. Before steaming we had to scarf two sections together to make one piece long enough to run the length of the hull. We cut a ten inch scarf joint then used WEST to join them together with several temporary fasteners which would be removed later in lieu of through bolting with carriage bolts…which provides a lot more strength. Perhaps a little overkill…but we don’t want and problems down the road, so why not a little insurance?

After steaming we used C-clamps and clamped the chines to the hull plank/battens itself which is a lot easier than trying to fit her into place right off the bat. Once she held her shape we then fit her into place and it was nearly a glove fit. So we fastened the chine and then installed the carriage bolts at the scarf joint. At that point we fastened the frames/gussets with carriage bolts into the keel and engine stringers. It’s just amazing how strong that darn thing is now, and she would not budge. What an improvement!

Once that was finished we faired the frames then sealed painted with CPES/bilge paint. Now we’re finally ready to begin on the bottom. I’m sure I heard the boat whisper, ‘Thank you! My back hasn’t felt that good in years!’

********* UPDATE *********

Well, this boat has become quite a project.  After getting the entire framework back in good condition, we dry-fitted the Okume inner layer and then attached with a bead of 5200 on the frames, chine, and keel.  Then it was onto dry fitting the outer mahogany planking, sealing and then putting that down.  No problems and all went fine.  Once the bottom was sanded it was time to drill the shaft and rudder hole in the new keel.  The easiest and most accurate way to do this is by temporarily attaching the strut and then using a shaft with a slightly oversized forstner bit fitted into the end.  We had two different sizes of these ‘shaft drilling tools’ made up for the different shaft diameters by our neighboring machine shop.  They work like a champ and it only takes about five minutes to drill the hole…and it’s perfect when finished.  (If you need one of these let me know and I can have one made for you.)  Be sure to have a block of wood attached to the keel just forward of where the bit will be entering the keel, otherwise the bit will veer off track due to the extreme angle.  Cut the block of wood where it meets the bit at the appropriate angle…it just makes things easier and cleaner.  Two coats of sealer, two coats of 2000E primer, followed by two coats of bronze bottom paint and now it looks beautiful and will keep that darn water out.

We decided to remove the old planks and battens while she was upside down.  The owner wanted to preserve the original Spanish cedar planking if at all possible, but the battens definitely had to be replaced.  We saved most of the original planking, but it took much effort to patch and repair the existing wood.  As a side note, unless you are really set on saving original, and marginal, wood I believe it’s always best to replace with new.  The cost difference is not all that much and you will be much happier with the result.  That being said, the cedar turned out quite nice after all our time.  She’s rolled back over now and it’s on to new decks, final fairing, and then the fun refinishing.

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I’m sure you can tell from the photos this poor lady had a run-in with a bad fire. As I understand it, this Resorter was stored in a building where a fellow was working with a torch on his car when things got a little out of control. Much was lost in the fire, and nearly this Century as well. Fortunately she was saved…depending on your perspective. She’s to receive the full makeover with new 5200 bottom, all new decks and hullsides, interior, chrome, and replacement power…going with a similar vintage V8 over the smaller six cylinder she had originally. Centurys are known for speed, so she’ll definitely have it with V8 power.

As always, we are starting with the bottom. After we made sure the hull was straight she was braced up and rolled over to begin the messy job of removing the old planks. We immediately noticed the keel was...well, a little ‘hogged’. It was also cracked in several areas and rotted in others. So, we removed that as well for replacement. It was no surprise that the triple-piece bottom transom frame was also completely shot. Our Century record is intact…every triple-piece bottom frame we’ve seen has been bad. There were minor cracks in several other frames, but to our pleasant surprise nearly all were in very good condition, escaping the fire’s wrath. A small section of the stem was soft, but not enough to warrant a complete replacement so we did a small repair with WEST and she’s as good as new. The cutwater also covers that particular section, so it will not only be strong but also invisible. Century had a single planked, batten-seam bottom but we always do the double-planked bottoms like Chris-Craft. It makes a stronger, more watertight bottom. As all the seams are over frames and battens it has the appearance of an original-type Century bottom.

********* UPDATE *********

Things are progressing quite nicely on this Resorter. Now we’re ready to roll her back over and begin what in my opinion is one of the most fun tasks on doing a total project like this…planking the hullsides and decks. Many amateurs are scared to death of doing this, but if you take your time and make small adjustments anyone can do it. But I digress. We dry fitted all the bottom planking before attaching with 5200. For some pleasant reason these planks laid down nearly perfect the first time I cut each plank…a first for me. Many emails asking me how tight the planks should fit. I’ve included a photo with a ‘penny’ snuggly fit between two of the planks, or about 1/16” of an inch. Too tight and not enough 5200 will ooze out; too loose and it will allow some degradation in the overall support of the wood. So, allow about a penny’s width as a good measure for the gaps. A smidge over or under is not the end of the world, but get it as close as you can.

You’ll also notice a LOT of washers near the bow. I’ve learned from experience (lots of cracked boards) that it’s better to use too many washers than not enough. There is a lot of stress on these boards as they bend and conform to the bow, so it’s not worth taking a chance to come in the next morning and see that that board you spent an hour shaping is now infected with numerous cracks at the screw holes. Better safe than sorry. Next we did our normal treatment of CPES, 2000e, and just one coat of bottom paint at this time. Our next task was fabricating two new splash rails, as the others were just plain toast (it was in a fire after all). We cut two pieces of white oak to length and width before cutting the fifteen degree angle and the gradual taper as it ends towards the cutwater. White oak does not want to bend without a fight, so we soaked and then steamed the two pieces for two hours. It’s amazing how easily they conformed to the chine. We used 2 ½” dry-wall screws with washers on the outside of the rails to attach them; otherwise the screws in the pre-drilled holes would have pulled through the soft wood. After letting it sit attached to the chine for a few days we removed the splash rails (which retained the curved shape), sealed with CPES then attached with 5200 and screws in the counter-sinked holes. It worked perfect and turned out beautiful. We fabricated the bottom transom plank, attached that with 5200, faired, and then applied several more coats of bottom paint.

As we put a new keel in her we had to drill a new shaft hole. Several of you have asked the best way to do this. Well, we used to have a small jig with an old shaft log that worked ‘ok’, but a friend of mine came up with a new device that makes it as easy as pie…and quick. He took an old 1” driveshaft, drilled a hole in one end large enough to accept a 1/2” Forstner bit tightened with a small allen screw on both sides of the shaft. On the drill end it’s machined down to fit in the end of a drill. You temporarily attach the strut and a block to help guide the bit as it enters the keel. We had the shaft hole cut in about ten minutes. It works like a champ. Any machine shop can make one of these for you. I hope this helps.

Now, she’s ready to roll over and start that fun (yes, I really do mean fun) job of re-planking.

********* UPDATE *********

As I mentioned in the previous update, re-planking can be one of the most enjoyable parts of the restoration. New wood always looks great, and it’s really not that hard if you take your time, make small adjustments…and don’t hesitate to pull the plank off just one more time to get that really nice fit. The only drawback on this particular project is the wood the owner provided was nearly thirty years old and proved to be a little brittle, requiring more steaming than normal. If you have to steam to get the curve at the bow without cracking or breaking, first get the basic shape by steaming then fitting to the boat with drywall screws and washers to securely hold the soft plank without pulling through the fasteners and then give it a day or two to retain the desired shape. Once it has the shape you need then you can begin hand planning to get the tight seam fit. Another challenge was this boat was in a pretty bad fire and the original planks made marginal patterns at best, so we had do take a little more time to get them just right.

We start the initial fairing with 40 grit to get the shape correct, and then move to 60, 80, and finally 100 grit, being sure to exert less pressure on each subsequent grade to make sure we leave no swirl marks. Some will go up to 150 girt, but I don’t believe the wood accepts the stain as well and can result in a blotchy appearance. Long boards are lightly used with 100 grit before bleaching and staining. If you discover any cracked bungs during the final sanding…remove them now and replace. You’ll be sorry later if you don’t.

Every restorer has a different method, but I like to stain the dark first, let dry for a couple of days, then tape that off and do the blond. After letting that dry for at least two more days, we apply two coats of sealer. We’ll take her to our upholsterer to do some final fitting and then make sure the new V8 engine fits correctly before applying the dozen coats of varnish. Still not done, but at least she’s starting to look like the beautiful boat she once was. Don’t think anyone would know now that she was in a fire. I swear the boat whispered to us the other day, ‘Whew, thanks…now I feel better!’

********* UPDATE *********

A lot of work has been done to bring this beautiful Resorter back to life.  Quite a few parts have been fabricated to replace those lost in the fire, stringers modified to accommodate the new modern power, and all the other factors that go along with restoring a boat that came to us in pieces…many in a box.    None-the-less, it’s been fun working on a challenging project…especially when you finally see the finished boat come together.

Now we’re at the point where we finish the mechanicals, install the flooring, convertible top, tie in all the electrical components, and other final details.  One of the best parts of this business is you’re usually the one that gets the first ride in the spring to work out any bugs…which there are always a few.  The end is in sight, and I know ‘At Last’ will be anxious to go home with her owner soon.

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